
So people in Michigan, when you ask them where something is, throw up their hand and point to a region to give you a better idea of where things are. I'm not sure if you have to use your left hand or your right hand, but this whole hand thing works fine for normal Michigan, but completely leaves out the UP (but after looking up this photo - you can make it too - p
lus here's a complete description of what's where). Thus I prefer making Alaska with my hand (make a gun with your right hand and then turn it so the top of your hand is facing you) which most people do not even realize you can do.
We were still in the UP but only for a little while longer. Our first stop of the morning was Castle Rock, a 1 dollar attraction (formerly 50 cents for about fifty years) that is loaded with Americana and kitsch.

First, Castle Rock is home to Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox (my third sighting for this road trip). They were large, but blocked by a fence to protect them.

Castle Rock supposedly was an Indian lookout. What it is now is a long steep climb up slanty concrete stairs to the top of a hill, a walk across a metal gangplank topped with fake grass, to a higher rocky outcrop with a lookout. What can you see here? Interstate loops, one of those Great Lakes (Huron I think), and some of the islands in the lakes. Not a long stop, but necessary.
Next we went to St. Ignace to catch a ferry to Mackinack (Mack-i-naw) Island. This island has a varied history - it was a British fort, an American fort, I am sure Indians went there, a playground for rich people, still, and a tourist destination. There were 3 ferry companies operating from St. Ignace and two from a more southern town. That's a lot of ferries to a little island and as such, Main Street was more crowded than Times Square in NYC. There are no motorized vehicles allowed (there are 5) so the traffic is all on foot, people on bicycles who haven't ridden them in years, and horse-drawn carriages that expect the right of way. There are actually five motorized vehicles on the island - an ambulance, a firetruck, a garbage truck. a police car, and something else, but we never saw them - just heard about it from a boy scout stationed at the fort earning a badge in something.
We got off Main Street as quickly as we could to escape the crowds, restuarants, and more than seven fudge shops. We spent a lot of time at Fort Mackinack learning about the history of the fort and the life the people had there. I think all of the original buildings are there and preserved and I think you can go in almost all of them. From the fort we walked some of the paths towards Arch Rock. There are paths, bike trails, and horse trails on the whole island, and if you wanted to rent a bike or a horse you could go anywhere quickly.

We walked and enjoyed the forest and after seeing Arch Rock, took another wooded path to one of the streets lined in expensive cottages. It's nice to look and the houses are beautiful, but I cannot imagine living in them 1. in the winter when it's cold and snowy, 2. in the summer with all the idiots all over the place, 3. having to take a boat to get to anything you need. There are only 600 year round residents, but over a million people visit each year.
There is a yacht race each year from Chicago to Mackinack Island and it must have just concluded because there were a thousand yachts in the harbor, lots of signs, bbqs everywhere, and teams walking around in matching shirts. It would have been neat to see the boats sail in.

We walked along the streets to the Grand Hotel.
The Grand Hotel is indeed grand - it's huge. It was built in the late 1880s, has over three hundred rooms, and the longest front porch in the world. It is slightly outside of town and if you want to walk past a certain sign to get a closer look, you have to pay ten dollars (it used to be 5). But still 10 dollars - just to get a closer look - and that includes if you want to get a drink or eat lunch there. You cannot eat dinner there unless you are staying in the hotel and Aaron had checked - the cheapest room, an inside room with no windows was around four hundred bucks! And after 5 pm, men bust be wearing a coat and tie and women must not be wearing slacks. I think it's a little too uppity for me.

We took the ferry back to St. Ignace and then crossed the Mackinac Bridge, third longest suspension bridge in the world (longest in the United States) to the lower part of Michigan. We stopped for lunch and I had my first pasty - pronounced past-ee, not paste-ee - a meat pie with onions, rutabegas, and other veggies. Quite tasty.
Next we went to Hartwick Pines State Park.

Hartwick Pines is the only old growth white pine forest in the state of Michigan (and probably anywhere). I've never seen white pines that big... and there were plenty of other big trees there as well. Because the trees are old, a lot of them are naturally dying so there are a surprising number of trees on the ground. What's different about this forest is how open the understory is - we could race through it as long as we successfully hurdled the fallen logs.
Our final destination for the day was Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. We did not have a campsite lined up and thought we could get one in the park (but there wasn't one). We drove the scenic drive and the ranger there was super-excited to see us and tell us all about where we could find available campsites. Score. Most of the scenic drive was through the woods with no view of the lake which was odd (you can take a
virtual tour here).

One place was recomended as a good place to watch the sunset and it was the steepest sand dune I have ever seen. I like this photo of Aaron bc you can see the little person (idiot) who went down to the lake and then had to climb the steep sand hill back up. It was very difficult to capture the steepness of this hill in a photo. We were early for the sunset and we decided not to wait. We finished the scenic drive and Aaron attempted to call his friends to confirm something. He asked me to park when he got good service so I parked at the pizza place - a subtle hint that worked into a pizza dinner! I also had an Oberon beer, a summer only brew made by Bell's Brewery. Aaron had a black label something - some ultra cheap beer he used to drink in college. The pizza was AMAZING and we should have ordered a bigger one. After dinner, we attempted to find the town campground that the ranger directed us to. It was a little off the beaten path and next to the airport (probably smaller than the Louisa airport), but it was the most wooded campground we had and the one where they may have filmed something like the Blair Witch Project. I set up the tent while Aaron went to go pay and he confused the man by walking up and not driving and the dude seemed to think the place was full and it was definitely not.
It was warm that evening so I suggested we leave the flaps of the tent open, unless it was going to rain. Aaron loves to check the weather on his phone (its the internet site that works the best for his phone I think) and we were shocked by the RED line of weather heading our way - not green, RED. So we shut the flaps and went to sleep for a bit. We were woken by the crash bang boom of a violent thunderstorm. Probably the closest and loudest I have ever experienced. I felt like the lightning was striking next to the tent even though there were trees all around. The tent kept us dry, but what other protection could it offer? What would we do if a tree fell on us? Aaron, sleepy and amused, said there was nothing we could do. Everything looked normal in the morning and the tent was only slightly damp.
We stopped at the coffee shop (that was the other half of the pizza-bar building) in the morning and I got a giant chocolate chip cherry cookie with my coffee for breakfast. We were off to the giant dune to climb up it. First of all I cannot believe they let people do this. Dune climbing erodes the dune and doubly erodes the dune because people's traffic kills the vegetation that holds the dune together. Yet, the parking lot was already half full when we got there and the dune face was littered in people of all ages climbing up, rolling down, etc.

Aaron and I set off up the dune and it didn't take long for us to crest... the first ridge. (In this photo I am smiling and hopeful because I have no idea what's in store) Aaron had done this with his dad years ago and that's as far as they got. Aaron and I set off for the the real ridge top and at the top were surprised to see yet another dune. We should have brought our coffee cups. Down and up - yet another dune. Down and up. I am not sure when it became apparent that Lake Michigan was much further than we thought, when we decided we were going to the lake, or when I told Aaron that I had walked this far and I was going to the lake. There were tons of people doing this - most only slightly more prepared than us. Really we should have put on sunscreen and worn our camelbacks. We were hiking through the sand with no sunscreen and no water.

At some point I realized it was much more fun and and energy efficient to run or lope down the hills, extending my stride as far as I could. Aaron said he could not match my stride and said it was like 7 feet. I always waited for him at the bottom. Each time we crested a hill we were hopeful it was the last because it's hard work walking uphill in sand, but there were many many sand dunes. Eventually we did make it to Lake Michigan and I promptly put my feet in to cool off, then started looking at all the cool rocks littering the lakeshore. The waves were big - small for the ocean - but way bigger than I expected. I found a rock with banded iron that Aaron thought was pretty awesome so we looked til we found one for him too (He likes metals and iron a lot). We also looked for Petoskey stones - the state rock of Michigan which is actually fossilized coral. Away from the crowd we found plenty of them as well as some other rocks I could not live without. With our pockets loaded we began the long trek back. At some point, Aaron found a post with a label letting us know we were 1/2 mile from the lake and 1 1/2 mile from the parking lot! That's when we found out it was a 4 mile hike. There was nothing to do but keep going slightly loaded down with rocks.
Now if you think I'm complaining, I probably seem like I am, but in fact, I really did enjoy the hike and thought the whole thing was rather beautiful. I just wish I had some sunscreen on to prevent the sunburn I got and had taken some water. I downed a bottle when we got back to the car and then finished my coffee. :)
We stopped at the gas station to get ice cold drinks, at a little gift shop to pick out some polished
petoskey stones (there's some good photos there of polished and unpolished), and then hit the road to Novi to stay with some of Aaron's friends Ryan and Jen. We took turns driving and while Aaron was driving I worked on my final that was due that day. I got as much done as I could without the internet and put the finishing touches on it at Ryan and Jen. I felt bad not hanging out with them because they seem like the nicest people ever, but I had my last practical to take (I got a B) and my final to finish (I got a 95A on that). Besides Aaron got to hang out with them and that's important.
The next day we went to the Detroit Zoo which has a fabulous Amphibian House, a super awesome polar bear exhibit, lots of penguins, and a good selection of other animals. I enjoyed the hippo and the rhinoceroses.

I like zoos and it was an enjoyable way to spend the morning. For the afternoon, I got an overview of Detroit, where Aaron lived, where he got his masters, all the abandoned run down places, and we went to the Detroit Institute of Arts. Aaron really likes the suits of armor, but we both enjoyed perusing the galleries. After the art museum, we had dinner at Woodward Avenue Brewery, one of Aaron's favorite bars when he lived in Detroit.
For the evening we went to Ann Arbor to stay with Brad and Lisa. I followed Aaron there and we drove right by the Michigan Stadium - I was IN Michigan - as in the navy and gold M. We went out for a night on the town and started at ABC - Arbor Brewing Company, then to an Irish bar, and then somewhere sort of upscale because Courtney Cox was hanging outside and Neve Campbell and David Arquette were inside. Plus Aaron's friend Tony had just shown up. Brad and Lisa and Tony were star stuck, but Aaron and I didn't really care... who are those people? We just enjoyed our beers.
The coolest thing about Ann Arbor are the fairy doors. There are more than twenty of them I think and the little doors are probably invisible to most people passing by. I think they are awesome and Brad was happy to point me in the direction of some of them so I could check them out. It would have been cool to search them all.
The next morning, we had no plans during the day so we went out for a day around Ann Arbor. Brad and Aaron spent (and had spent) most of their time reliving memories from the fraternity some of which were very funny.

We stopped on State Street so Aaron could get some new Michigan shirts and I was AMAZED by the number of available Michigan shirts, the number of stores selling them, and the fact that each store had slightly different shirts. Brad said that Michigan is the leader in selling licensed clothing and that there are over a million living alumni or something. I looked for something Michigan that was funny or ironic, but had no luck. We also walked around a little bit around campus and through the Arb, a large arboretum that borders the campus.
For the evening, we were off to Detroit to the casino to play craps and then to the Old Shillelagh (she-lay-lee) for authentic Irish music.

Brad, Tony, and Aaron love playing craps, and Aaron did his best to explain it to me, but I still only marginally understand it. Plus I don't like losing money so I didn't want to bet (even though Aaron offered his cash for me to bet). I think Aaron broke even and everyone else had lost money by the time we left for the Shillelagh. We were early, but it the Irish guys were awesome.

The band is called Black Mist and they have played the Old Shillelagh on Fridays and Saturdays for the last
fourteen years. The songs were interesting, but the commentary between songs about everyone in the room was hilarious and I do not think most people really caught most of what they were saying. After a while the boys decided they wanted to go back to the casino to play more craps. Lisa and I got pretty bored, but didn't complain too loudly. Let's just say it was a late night, I really do not like cigarette smoke, and we got home at 4am!
The next day after sleeping in, breakfast at Angelo's, and loading some of Aaron's things into my car, I followed Aaron to Cleveland to meet Aunt Pat. Then we went over to his other Uncle and Aunt's for dinner and I got to meet one of his cousins. They were very nice and apparently did not lay it on too thick, though there was plenty of banter. The next morning we all met again for breakfast (where they were all astonished that Aaron eats and likes eggs) and then I hit the road for Virginia. It was a long drive, but not terrible, and I made good time. Plus it was good to be home.